Triana, the neighbourhood that still calls itself "across from Seville".

Triana takes its name from its ancient origins: the neighbourhood dates back to Tartessian times, on the right bank of the river then called the Betis by the Romans. The Almohads built the first bridge linking Triana to the centre, a pontoon bridge on the site of today's Puente de Triana.

History & origins

Triana long functioned as a town apart, separated from the centre by the river, to the point that its residents historically used to say "I'm going to Seville" when crossing the bridge. In the 15th and 16th centuries, Triana was home to a School of Navigators that trained crews for the great expeditions: sailors trained here took part in Columbus's voyage and in Magellan and Elcano's circumnavigation of the globe — the Plaza de Cuba, in fact, bears a sphere marking "kilometre zero" of that first voyage around the world.

Heritage & architecture

The Castillo de San Jorge, a former Almohad fortress, became the seat of the Inquisition tribunal for more than 300 years, from the 15th to the 19th century. The site is today an archaeological space and a museum of historical memory, beneath the current Mercado de Triana, free entry, open daily from 9.30am to 2.30pm.

The Church of Santa Ana, built in the 13th century under Alfonso X the Wise, is Seville's oldest church; Trianeros affectionately nickname it the "cathedral of Triana". The Capilla del Carmen, built in 1928 by Aníbal González at the end of the Puente de Triana, combines exposed brick and ceramic tiles; its silhouette earned it the popular nickname "encendedor" (cigarette lighter). Along the river, Calle Betis lines up its colourful façades opposite unbeatable views of the Giralda and the Torre del Oro.

Culture & living traditions

Triana has given rise to many flamenco artists (guitarists, singers, bullfighters), and the Soleá, one of the styles of flamenco, is particularly associated with it. Six brotherhoods take part in the Holy Week processions from the neighbourhood. In late July, the Velá de Santa Ana, the neighbourhood's patron saint festival, is famous for its game of the cucaña, a greased pole tilted out over the river. Beyond the museum, several neighbourhood workshops continue to produce tiles and decorative pieces using traditional methods.

Suggested itinerary

Morning · 9am-12pm: Crossing over and the Inquisition

The Puente de Triana, Plaza del Altozano, then the Castillo de San Jorge.

Afternoon · 12pm-5pm: Market and ceramics

Lunch at the Mercado de Triana, then Calle Alfarería and the Centro Cerámica Triana.

Evening · 5pm onwards: The riverbank

The Capilla del Carmen at the end of the bridge, a stroll along Calle Betis and the Guadalquivir, tapas at a bodega.

Suggested itinerary, not field-tested.

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